Alternative species (click on the thumbnail to see the card)
None
Names
Scientific name
Parambassis ranga
Pseudambassis ranga
Chanda ranga
Ambassis notatus
Pseudambassis notatus
Common name
Indian glass fish
Indian glassy fish
Indian glassy perch
Indian X-ray fish
Origin
Origin: Asia (Thailand, India, Burma)
Biotope: Non specific
Dimorphism
The male has a blue border on his dorsal and anal fins. It is generally more colorful than the female
Group
Ambassidae
Volume
80 L / 48 Imp gal / 21 US gal
Parameters
T°: 20 to 30°C or 68 to 86°F
pH: 7.3 to 8
Hardness: 15 to 20°dGH
Difficulty
Average
Size
5 cm (2")
Longevity
3 to 5 years
Living zone
Middle
Individuals
8
Food
Food
How to feed the Indian glass fish?
This fish is easy to feed since it generally accepts dry food. However, for good health, vary the types of food as much as possible and offer fresh prey as often as possible. It particularly likes artemia, cyclops, daphnia, mosquito larvae, tubifex or water fleas.
Behavior
Behavior
What kind of behavior does the Indian glass fish have?
This species is rather shy and not very active. Ranga do not move much and can stay in a static position for a long time. Nevertheless, they appreciate open spaces.
Cohabitation
Cohabitation
Who can live with the Indian glass fish?
Cohabitation with his fellow human beings is absolutely necessary for his well-being. Indeed, this fish lives in schools of at least 8 specimens at the strict minimum, but the more they are numerous, the better!
As for the other species, two criteria must be taken into account: that the requirements in water parameters are compatible (brackish water) and that they are calm fish so as not to frighten the Ranga. Therefore, a specific aquarium is preferable. However, you can associate it with Bumblebee fish (Brachygobius xanthozonus) for example.
Breeding
Breeding
How to breed the Indian glass fish?
The breeding of this species, although easy, is not very common.
Prepare a breeding aquarium of 20 to 40 liters. The water must imperatively have a pH equal to or higher than 7.5 for the development of the fry (control this value throughout the breeding process). Install numerous clumps of moss (such as Java moss for example). Introduce 1 male and 2 females that you have selected and stimulate freshness by distributing live prey such as artemia or mud worms. Make a good water change (25%) and gradually increase the temperature to 28-29°C or 82-84°F. After egg laying, quickly remove the parents.
The eggs of this species are often subject to fungi. To limit losses, you can prevent this problem by adding Trypaflavin (proportion: 1 g per 100 liters).
Up to 500 eggs can be laid in this prolific species (usually around 200 eggs). Incubation lasts about 24 hours and free swimming (total resorption of the yolk sac) takes place 4 or 5 days later. You can start to feed them from that moment on. The fry only accept shellfish nauplias (do not eat rotifers, infusers or others).
Feeding the fry: nauplia of artemia or cyclops.
Its aquarium
Its aquarium
Which aquarium for the Indian glass fish?
In the wild, this fish can be found in fresh to brackish waters. In aquariums, you can therefore keep this species in slightly brackish water. If your tap water is hard enough, it is not necessarily necessary to add salt. However, if your tap water is very soft, it is better to add a small amount of salt, either in the form of sea water (0.5 to 1% by volume) or in the form of added salt (1 to 2 g per liter of water).
To reassure this great shy person, the presence of floating plants is essential. They provide shade and a very reassuring plant cover. For the same reason, choose a dark soil and place large peat bog roots. Plant densely with plants compatible with hard water (Ceratopteris, Cryptocoryne, Java moss...).
For filtration, a flow rate of 1 to 1.5 times the volume per hour is sufficient. Orient the discharge pipe on the surface to facilitate gas exchange.
Good To know
Good To know
Find all additional information!
Yellow, pink or green fluo variants are sometimes commercially available. These colors, far from being natural, are due to injections of pigments. This is to be absolutely avoided because it considerably deteriorates the quality of life of the fish, making it very fragile. Moreover, the fish will not keep this coloration in the long term. This practice is to be classified among the ill-treatment that can be inflicted on animals.
Sensitive to Piscinoodinium pillularis (velvet disease). This disease is extremely contagious and fatal if not treated in time. However, maintenance in brackish water greatly limits the risk of the disease appearing.
This fish has the reputation of being difficult to maintain in aquariums. However, it is very tolerant of water parameters.
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